Se vi state affacciando da poco al mondo dei capelli ricci sani e come renderli più sani, di sicuro avrete letto tantissime raccomandazioni sul leggere attentamente l’INCI dei prodotti.
Ma che cos’è l’INCI?
L’INCI altro non è che l’elenco di tutti i componenti di un prodotto. Come forse saprete, i produttori non sono tenuti ad elencarci le quantità specifiche di ogni ingrediente ma sappiamo che l’elenco viene fatto in ordine decrescente, quindi al primo posto troveremo l’ingrediente contenuto in maggior quantità e così via.
Una volta che sapete questo, è facile valutare l’INCI come buono o pessimo. Se l’ingrediente potenzialmente dannoso per i nostri capelli è situato ai primi posti della lista, l’INCI non sarà buono. Infatti la differenza sta tutta nella quantità di prodotto (nocivo o meno).
Come scegliamo i prodotti migliori? Impariamo a conoscere gli ingredienti.
L’ingrediente principale è sempre l’acqua, seguita a ruota da stabilizzanti, umettanti, emulsionanti , emolienti, principi attivi, profumi e conservanti.
I tensioattivi sono da una parte simili all’acqua dall’altra simili al grasso, questa doppia consistenza permette loro di eliminare lo sporco, e sono contenuti in quasi tutti i prodotti, shampoo, balsamo, detergente intimo, bagnoschiuma e sapone liquido. Tra i tensioattivi più utilizzati ci sono il Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) e il Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES). Certo, sono i più usati perchè hanno un’azione detergente molto forte e riescono a rimuovere a fondo lo sporco permettendo ad altre sostanza di penetrare nella pelle.
Questi fanno parte della famiglia cattiva.
I tensioattivi meno aggressivi sono il Lauryl Glucoside, il Coco Glucoside and Glyceryl oleate e il Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate.
Di seguito poi, troveremo la Paraffina e la Vaselina che sono indicati con Paraffin, Paraffinum Liquidum, Petrolatum, Mineral Oil, questi vengono usati con azione filmante, nella fase grassa della crema.
Anche questi fanno parte della famiglia cattiva, poichè la loro azione impedisce la traspirazione della pelle e occlude i pori.
I siliconi si riconoscono nelle etichette per la desinenza -one, –thicone, -siloxane.
Tra i gel invece, potete trovare il Carbomer. Non è biodegradabile e viene sostituito nella cosmesi eco-bio da gelificanti naturali quali la gomma xantana , la gomma carragenina e l/o l’agar -agar
Il Propylene Glycol è un derivato del petrolio ma è degradabile . Ha funzione di solvente.
I vari EDTA, PEG, DEA, MEA, PPG, TEA, MIPA evitano che i metalli si ossidino facendo marcire il prodotto, per intenderci se troviamo queste sigle sappiamo che ci possono essere molecole petrolifere.
I parabeni sono dei conservanti e vengono segnalati nell’etichetta come -paraben.
Viene utilizzato in percentuale sempre inferiore al resto degli ingredienti, quindi lo troviamo all’ultimo posto; nella cosmesi eco-bio vengono accettati il Potassio Sorbato e il Sodio Benzoato.

Un Prodotto con un “cattivo” INCI

Un INCI di un prodotto BIO
Un buono o un cattivo INCI è dato sempre dal complesso di tutti i prodotti, e non presi singolarmente, quindi imparate a leggerli con cura.
Personalmente sto acquistando prodotti di origine naturale, a tal proposito ho trovato uno shop online veramente bellissimo, sorgente natura, che ha una vasta, vastissima scelta di prodotti naturali, non solo per capelli, ma per tutto, alimentazione, cura del corpo, igiene della casa ecc…
Vi consiglio di dargli uno sguardo, a breve vi parlerò di alcuni dei prodotti per la cura dei miei ricci, che ho acquistato in questo shop fantastico, altri ancora devo provarli e vi aggiornerò passo passo.
Un’altra soluzione è sicuramente quella di ricorrere spesso a metodi naturali per detergere, idratare e proteggere i vostri ricci. Ci sono infatti tantissimi modi per raggiungere risultati eccellenti, anche solo aprendo la dispensa di casa, nel prossimo articolo vi dirò quali sono i miei metodi naturali preferiti per pulire e soprattutto idratare i miei capelli.
Iniziate da subito a leggere attentamente tutti i componenti dei vostri prodotti e fare una piccola scrematura; quasi sicuramente i vostri capelli sono crespi ed aridi a causa di quei componenti, e non semplicemente perchè “sono così di natura” .
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