Oli naturali nemici e amici dei capelli ricci!
Perchè un olio piuttosto che un altro sui miei capelli? Quale usare ? Come usarli?
Niente paura. Facciamo un pò di chiarezza in questo articolo. Sperando di essere il più possibile esaustiva.
Prima di iniziare ci tengo a chiarire una cosa piuttosto importante.
Gli oli non sono degli idratanti. Non idratano i capelli.
Moltissime fanno l’errore di credere che l’olio idrati i capelli, perchè dopo l’applicazione ci si sente i capelli più morbidi. Non succede a tutte purtroppo, ad alcune gli oli danno l’effetto opposto : seccano i capelli e li rendono più crespi. Come mai?
Un prodotto idratante è un prodotto a base di acqua che di solito riesce ad idratare i nostri capelli, perché apporta idratazione con e tramite l’acqua. Esempio : l’aloe è una pianta naturale composta soprattutto di acqua, per questo motivo, quando leggete di un prodotto che la contiene, sappiate che state apportando idratazione ai vostri capelli.
Per natura, e per struttura molecolare, gli oli in generale sono dei sigillanti, ovvero creano una sorta di patina protettiva sulla fibra del capello, per impedire all’idratazione di uscire, ma anche di entrare. Mi spiego meglio. I sigillanti, sono ingredienti (tra cui appunto gli oli) che servono per bloccare l’idratazione all’interno del capello. In altre parole diventano una sorta di rivestimento, che impedisce all’acqua di andar via dal capello.
Sono dunque perfetti per chi di natura ha i capelli molto porosi , quindi con cuticule molto aperte che disperdono tutto ciò che mettete sopra. Gli impacchi pre shampoo per questo tipo di capello, possono aiutare a creare questa famosa patina che vi serve poi a mantenere i prodotti all’interno della fibra del capello. Viceversa, sconsiglio vivamente l’impacco pre shampoo con gli oli, a chi ha i capelli con bassa porosità, poiché avete già le cuticule molto chiuse, non avete bisogno che l’olio vi faccia da scudo ulteriore.
E’ anche vero però che non tutti gli oli sono uguali. Alcuni hanno molecole più grandi altri più piccole; quelli con le molecole più piccole riescono a penetrare i capelli dandoci quella sensazione di morbidezza, che possiamo confondere con idratazione, per questo motivo vengono detti penetranti. Questi sono perfetti da utilizzare con impacchi pre shampoo.
Gli oli con le molecole più grandi invece, funzionano meglio come sigillanti. Sono ideali da utilizzare con il metodo LOG , ovvero Leave in – Olio – Gel.
E’ un metodo che non ho provato, quindi non vi so dare dei feedback al riguardo, ma se voi lo provate voglio assolutamente sentire i vostri pareri.
Vi ricordo inoltre, che gli oli si possono usare anche per il massaggio allo scalpo: per favorire la crescita dei capelli e aggiungere olio al naturale sebo dove ci sia carenza di produzione (di solito in una cute secca, capelli molto porosi) ; potete usare il vostro olio preferito per togliere l’effetto cast a fine asciugatura ed infine aggiungere una goccia di olio (meglio se penetrante) nella vostra maschera idratante preferita.
Tranquille amiche mie, non vi lascio con il dubbio : Quale sarà un olio penetrante e uno sigillante? Qui sotto vi lascio una lista con gli oli più famosi e facilmente reperibili e dove vanno a collocarsi.
Oli penetranti:
- Olio di cocco
- Olio di avocado
- Olio di oliva
- Olio di argan
- Olio di girasole
Oli sigillanti:
- Olio di mandorle
- Olio di ricino
- Olio di semi di lino
- Olio di jojoba
- Olio di semi di canapa
Vi è piaciuto questo articolo? Iscrivetevi alla mia pagina Instagram per non perdervi proprio niente, le mie routine, i refresh e i progressi dei miei capelli!
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