AVERE UN BUON PRODOTTO STYLING BASTA? – TUTTI I FATTORI CHE INCIDONO SUL RISULTATO FINALE DA NON SOTTOVALUTARE
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Buongiorno a tutti! Sono Marta, alcuni di voi mi conoscono già dopo la mia presenza in uno degli articoli scorsi qui nel blog di Angry Curl. Sono appassionata di capelli ricci, non passa giorno in cui non pensi a come migliorare le mie capacità e mettere in atto processi sempre più performanti per la mia chioma. Ho un canale Youtube , in cui iniziai tempo fa a provare prodotti per capelli ricci senza logica alcuna, ne sono consapevole. Ma è proprio grazie a quel mio inizio che ora sono qui a mostrarvi ciò che ho imparato nel corso di questi anni, testimoniato anche dal grande cambiamento che ho avuto e che spero continuerò ad avere.
Durante questi anni ho provato tantissimi prodotti per capelli ricci e alla fine ho iniziato a pensare che, dopo aver ottenuto tanti risultati diversi con lo stesso prodotto, ciò che conta più di tutto si nasconde nei dettagli di cui spesso non si è a conoscenza. Per questo vorrei scrivere un articolo a ciò dedicato, incoraggiata anche da Silvia, che ringrazio tanto per la disponibilità che mi riserva sempre, in tutto. Mi è venuta questa idea e credo sia importantissimo diffondere alcuni dei punti chiave che si celano dietro a un risultato perfetto.
Piccola premessa, parlo sempre tenendo in considerazione la mia tipologia di capello che è ovviamente quella che conosco di più. Non so se tutto quello che funziona per me valga al 100% anche per altre tipologie di ricci.
Iniziamo subito!
- Imparare a capire la giusta quantità per ogni prodotto
Uno stesso prodotto può dare effetti diversi sui capelli in base alla quantità che si utilizza. A volte capita che mettendone poco dia la sensazione che sui capelli non ci sia nulla e quindi tendono a perdere prima la forma e a risultare poco definiti con presenza più o meno elevata di crespo. Oppure capita di metterne molto di più rispetto alla quantità necessaria e potrebbero risultare appesantiti, il riccio già da subito quasi sporco al tatto, facendo difficoltà a mostrarsi elastico. Uno dei prodotti con cui mi sto trovando benissimo in questo periodo è il gel di Aunt Jackie’s, che trovate ad esempio su Afroitalia o su Amazon.
Un giorno credevo di aver sbagliato la quantità, ho addirittura pensato “Caspita, ho davvero esagerato questa volta… Non verranno mai bene.” Ed invece il risultato è stato pazzesco, super leggeri, definiti, lucenti, più voluminosi, senza crespo, molto ricci, ed hanno tenuto a lungo nei giorni successivi, insomma… Perfetti! Usandolo invece nella quantità che sono solita prelevare con tutti gli altri prodotti styling il risultato non mi soddisfa molto, è troppo leggero per metterne poco. Questo per dirvi che un prodotto deve essere provato più di una volta e in diverse quantità… Lascio a voi gli esperimenti…!!!
- Distribuire il prodotto styling in modo uniforme
Spesso, anche se il prodotto styling è valido per la nostra tipologia di capello, distribuendolo in modo sbagliato lo renderà inefficace. Se ad esempio viene applicato solamente con la tecnica dello scrunch, ci si concentrerà maggiormente sulle lunghezze tralasciando parte dei capelli, quella più vicina alla radice, oppure ci si dimenticherà della parte posteriore sulla sommità della testa. Questo farà sì che alcune sezioni saranno più crespe e poco definite, oltre ad apparire meno ricce e non uniformi al resto. Consiglio sempre la tecnica del raking che permette di “pettinare” i capelli con le dita sporche di prodotto e far sì che esso si distribuisca bene (in modo generico o dividendo i capelli in sezioni); aiutatevi anche con la Denman Brush per avere la certezza di averlo fatto al meglio. Questa spazzola infatti ha lo scopo principale di aiutare a distribuire il prodotto in modo omogeneo, oltre a quello di incoraggiare il capello ad arricciarsi. A tal proposito vi lascio un mio video in cui parlo di questa spazzola per me fondamentale per la gestione dei capelli ricci.
- Assicurarsi che durante il processo di styling i capelli restino sempre idratati
Quando iniziamo a mettere il prodotto styling spesso perdiamo parecchio tempo, soprattutto se siamo agli inizi, cerchiamo di fare tutto minuziosamente, magari dividendo in sezioni e lavorando in questo modo. Facendo così, però, spesso succede che i capelli inizino ad asciugarsi in alcune parti e ho riscontrato finora che, asciugandosi, perdono l’idratazione e diventa più difficile metterli in piega, oltre al rischio di imbattervi nel solito problema del crespo. Munitevi di uno spruzzino riempito con semplice acqua e ogni tanto, se ne sentite il bisogno, anche quando lavorandoli un po’ troppo si perde la compattezza del riccio e viene scomposto, come se fosse troppo diviso in ciocche troppo piccole, con un po’ d’acqua e con un semplice scrunch si risolve il problema. Il riccio si ricompatta, si idrata di nuovo e riesce a girare meglio su sé stesso. Provare per credere.
- La forma dei ricci deve essere già bella a capelli bagnati
Ricordatevi che la forma dei capelli bagnati, una volta terminato lo styling, dice tantissimo sulle sorti del risultato finale. Se vi accorgete che qualche ciocca non si è arricciata bene difficilmente migliorerà una volta asciutta. Spesso se si usa la Denman Brush (specialmente per una tipologia di capelli come la mia, meno riccia rispetto a Silvia) bisogna stare attenti al verso in cui incoraggiamo la ciocca a girare. Se la forziamo nel suo verso contrario il riccio avrà una forma strana, sia da bagnata ma in particolar modo da asciutta. Ho realizzato un video per voi in cui parlo di come tenere in considerazione il verso dei capelli ricci. In pochi sottolineano questo aspetto ma io non posso trascurarlo. Fate attenzione! Disponeteli già in modo perfetto prima di asciugarli e vedrete poi che risultato!
- Usare più prudenza del solito il giorno del lavaggio
Toccare tanto i capelli ricci, è risaputo, non è un toccasana per il loro stato, specialmente quando sono bagnati. Senza considerare il processo di asciugatura, che è forse il momento più delicato per i nostri capelli, in cui il riccio si sta formando e non dobbiamo assolutamente toccarli in modo aggressivo e rischiare così di disfarlo, anche il giorno del lavaggio stesso richiede più attenzioni del solito, in quanto la piega non si è ancora stabilizzata e i capelli sono più propensi a rovinarsi. Il giorno stesso del lavaggio renderà i vostri capelli più modellabili, fragili e delicati e di conseguenza dobbiamo cercare di proteggerli il più possibile, anche quando indossiamo magliette, maglioni di lana, sciarpe, ecc. Abbiate anche più cura nel proteggerli durante la notte, utilizzate una cuffia, una bandana o ciò che preferite ma perdeteci qualche minuto in più dato che i capelli saranno più predisposti a deformarsi. Dal secondo giorno in poi i vostri ricci saranno più forti, più saldi e potete anche allentare le vostre attenzioni (senza esagerare!) A tal proposito consiglio sempre, quando possibile, di lavarli di mattina o almeno mai subito prima di andare a dormire. Più tempo passerà dal lavaggio al momento in cui andrete a dormire e meglio sarà perché darete ai capelli più tempo per assestarsi.
- Utilizzare i prodotti lasciandoli in posa il tempo necessario
Questa devo proprio dirvela! Devo proprio svelarvi una delle mie scoperte recenti. Più che scoperta è una testimonianza, dato che Silvia ne parla spesso. Ogni prodotto ha un tempo di posa ma non sempre quello indicato è quello corretto. Giorni fa per la prima volta ho applicato la maschera (la mia amata Hair Food alla papaya) e l’ho tenuta in posa per 15 minuti invece di 3 come è indicato nella confezione e come facevo sempre. Premetto che io utilizzo la maschera ad ogni lavaggio, e non mi interessa di chi dice che sia un errore, che bisogna farla a lavaggi alternati, ecc.; se non la uso ho un risultato tutto sommato buono, ma mai ottimo. Come per tante altre cose, sono sempre stata scettica a riguardo della posa così lunga, nonostante tantissime dicessero essere ciò che fa la differenza. Allora, come sempre, ho lasciato indietro le mie perplessità e l’ho fatto. Conclusione? Mai avuto un effetto molla così evidente.
Vi invito a fare lo stesso per idratare a fondo il capello; credo che almeno una volta a settimana la terrò in posa anche per 30 minuti.. Sono proprio curiosa di vedere cosa ne uscirà! Infine, prendete informazioni da tutti ma seguite in modo più specifico chi ha i capelli della vostra stessa tipologia. Ricordate comunque che per ognuno è differente e solo voi riuscirete a capire davvero i vostri capelli e le loro esigenze.
- Avere il massimo dai vostri capelli abbandonando le vostre convinzioni
Ho da sempre sperimentato tante tecniche di styling, diversi metodi di asciugatura e variato gli ordini di utilizzo e le applicazioni dei prodotti unite a nuove combinazioni possibili con tutto ciò che possiedo nella mia collezione di prodotti. Credo che ciò che blocchi tantissime di voi sia il pensiero di non fare qualcosa solo per sentito dire da non so chi. Ad esempio, molte mi scrivono “la maschera non va utilizzata dopo il balsamo, o l’uno o l’altro”, oppure “i miei capelli sono fini quindi non devo mettere mai troppo prodotto”, “ho i capelli grassi e non posso fare il Cowash”. Pensano questo e tanto altro ma magari non hanno mai provato a farlo, parlano per sentito dire. In questo modo non troverete mai nulla di nuovo che cambierà radicalmente la vostra routine, è necessario provare anche la cosa che ci sembra più assurda, in modo che al massimo parlerete per esperienza personale e non per luoghi comuni. Io ho i capelli abbastanza fini e tendono a sporcarsi subito (ad essere onesta da quando seguo il Curly Girl Method i rimangono puliti più a lungo) e sono un po’ diffidente nei confronti del Cowash; sono dubbiosa a proposito della sua efficacia su di me ma questo non significa che non lo proverò. Anzi, in uno dei prossimi video su Youtube lo farò per la prima volta insieme a voi, magari scoprirò che è un metodo di detersione che mi piace molto, oppure che non fa per me… Bisogna sperimentare tutto.
Grazie a tutti per aver letto, vi aspetto sul mio canale Youtube per condividere esperimenti e segreti sul meraviglioso mondo dei capelli ricci!
Vi è piaciuto questo articolo? Iscrivetevi alla mia pagina Instagram per non perdervi proprio niente, le mie routine, i refresh e i progressi dei miei capelli!
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